Day 3: Montbonnet to Monistrol d'Allier

Dave: As we awoke, Montbonnet was dark, wet and cold. We were warmed by some delicious coffee and bread, butter and nice jam. But we saw sheets of rain falling. By 8:15am the rain had stopped but it was cold enough for gloves, and we set out toward St Privat-d’Allier, about 7.2 km away. By then the rain had stopped. We walked through misty farm fields, with our 3 Montbonnet friends, Janine, Penny and Veronica a couple of hundred feet behind us. The climb grew steeper and they caught up with us as we took a breather. 

Annie: As we entered into a forested area, the mist moved around the mountains, letting a few rays of sun in. It was excellent walking weather, and the changing light made the landscape magical. We walked through first through a pine forest, then through fields and farm lands, until we hit our first stop St Privat. 

St Privat-d'Allier

Interior of Eglise St Privat

Dave and I climbed through the small village to the old church [fine views of the valley]. We read a little about the evil overlords of the area during the Wars of Religion. Then we climbed down into the little town. I bought a slice of flan at the Boulangerie and ordered a sandwich: jambon-buerre. Quelle surprise! We had a quick coffee at the Bar Tabac where we caught up with our friends. Then we set off again.

Dave: The 2 of us began the climb out town on a small D road. But soon we took a sharp left off that road onto a much narrower footpath that headed downhill through a meadow, over a brook which we had to ford, and then up into woods. Lots of up and down on the path which occasionally widened into a trail.   

View from Rochegude

Soon we had reached Rochegude:, a teeny village, with a rocky crag topped with castle ruin and tiny medieval chapel. Splendid views.

 Annie: By that time [close to 11:30] the rain started again in earnest. We were obliged to eat our petite sandwich in the dark, dreary chapel. Just as we finished up, a face appeared in the doorway: Veronica! She and the 2 Australians had caught up with us. The five of us finished the rest of walk together into Monistrol (about 4 km). The descent from Rochegude was rocky, muddy and very slick. But the path finally leveled off and opened up onto a field.

Dave: We walked through Pratclaux on a rare, relatively flat plain and it began clearing. We had one other steep descent through woods, this one was shorter. The final 1.5 km of the walk were downhill on a road. The 5 of us made it into Monistrol by about 2:30pm.

Annie: Our Gite, "Au Ricochet," was very different from last night. Dave and I basically have a private room, and there are 2 showers and bathrooms on our floor. We had a lovely dinner of carrot and lentil salads, sausage and a creamy potato dish and then Flan for dessert. After dinner, the pilgrims (about 16) had Tisanes and coffee in the loft, and just mixed . I spoke with a couple from Anger and a Dutch couple.

The hill outside of Monistrol we would have to climb the next day

Monistrol d'Allier