Villeret-d’Apcher 1134m to
Saint-Alban-sur-Ligmagnole 950m
Dave: We departed at 8:40am, and immediately went downhill
steeply. We then had a very challenging ascent toward Chanaleilles. It was sunny and clear; the air very cool
(needed gloves). We had a nice view of a neighboring villages and its church in the distance.
Annie: Breakfast was
stellar – good coffee, many jams, cereal and fruit, along with a local brioche
pastry (St. Genix). We had very good
walking weather. The first part of the
walk was challenging: lots of ups and
downs, including “summitting” the highest part of the Massif, “Le Sauvage,” at
1315m. 
The countryside was
beautiful: first pastures, then a foret
départementale with nice, soft walking paths.
No cafés or buvettes, though.
.
Dave: After 3-4 km, the path veered right through a broad, hilly grazing
area toward “Le Sauvage” -- a gite which we later heard has terrific food. No
place visible to buy coffee at Sauvage, so we turned right and continued on a
wide dirt road steeply uphill, passing through some sadly clear cut forests, to Chapelle Saint Roch where we hungrily ate our lunch.  |
| Add caption |
Then onward and mostly (for a change) on a
gentle downward slope, through sunny picturesque fields of yellow gorse and
cattle. By then it had warmed to the high 60s or even low 70s. The past 2 km
were painful ones as we had to walk through the suburb of St Alban on hard, hot
roads.
 |
| about 7 km outside of St Albans |
Annie: I have now become so used to the gite-pèlerin spirit
that the abrupt transaction at the Hotel du Centre seemed odd. We showered, checked our aching feet, then
explored the little downtown. Our room
is no luxury spa, but it has a great view of the church, and we have
sheets! It’s a relief not to use the
mummy bags.
 |
| Petanque tournament in St Alban |
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| The view from our hotel room |
Dave: We checked out the church and shared a beer with our
friends from the Netherlands. Dinner was
no great shakes for food, but everyone sat together and we had a wonderful
conversation. We especially enjoyed
talking with a disabled Swiss man who was doing the entire Camino (starting
from Switzerland) on a partially motorized bicycle!
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