Day 5: Saugues to Villeret-d’Apcher (42.5-54 km)

Saugues (960 m) to Villeret d'Apcher (1134 m)

There are a thousand ways to kneel and kiss the earth.

         Rumi

Annie: Annie:  Breakfast was phenomenal – a true “dégustation de confitures” – and “faisselles,” or little jars of fromage frais, made from the previous night’s milking.





Dave: Dave: Dave: After a nice breakfast (so many confitures!) and a visit to the farmer’s market. We set out on the D road, jagging left onto a wide dirt/gravel trail, passing a winding stream.

The path began gently climbing, cutting through farm fields and forests. Initially it was damp and chilly, but the walk was quite beautiful – it wasn’t exactly sunny but the air was so clean and clear.

Soon we reached Le Clauze where we stopped by some castle ruins for a snack. Now just 4 kms away or so away from our destination (today is a short walk – less than 15km).

Annie:  After a friendly welcome at the Auberge des Deux Pèlerins, the owner stunned us with the news that at 18h45, we would all gather together for an apéritif and we would sing “the pilgrims’ song”!

Dave: The Gite is newly renovated and very clean. They are devoted to ridding the pilgrim world of the punaise de lit (bed bug) and the owner showed us some of the literature for pilgrims that passionately makes a case for how best to do this (i.e., leave your boots and sac a dos outside of the sleeping quarters!).

Annie: Dinner was great, and a unique experience.  The owner strummed his guitar, and we all sang the “Chant des Pèlerins,” conveniently printed on our placemats.  There was a large group at dinner, so there was a strong chorus.  We sang the song two times.  

Singing the Pilgrim's song.

Maison de la Béate

After dinner the owner took us around the tiny hamlet.  We saw the “Maison de la Béate.”  Apparently in 19^th-century France there existed a non-clerical group of women, the béates, who taught village children their catechism and the 3 Rs.  Le Villeret had the last Béate in France, Maria Borel, who died in 1972.